Everywhere I went in Ireland, I found hospitality:  people eager to share stories, to add a personal touch, or to take the extra step to be kind and to make me feel welcome and at home.  The calendar was such that the only time I could visit Sheen Falls was a few days before their seasonal reopening.  Although the cottages were also officially closed, one was opened ahead of schedule for my visit!  I felt a little adventurous, alone in the lovely cottage, knowing that in just a few days, the resort would begin to fill with visitors.  The cottage had an authentic thatched roof, a fireplace, a view of the bay, and the hotel staff had thoughtfully left some groceries there for my two-night stay.  My first day at Sheen Falls, I we met with Patricia, the hotel’s coordinator, and had a full tour of the property, the rooms, the spa, and the restaurants.  With so much to do onsite or nearby, Sheen Falls seems like a great place for families, and I can imagine how magnificent the falls, the bay, and the hillsides are as summer approaches.  On my second day there, I visited the village of Kenmare, where I met with some knowledgeable shop owners, including photographer Eoghan Kavanagh, from whom I got some wonderful photographs and some great local advice about various restaurants, pubs, and places to visit.  Eoghan seemed to have all the time in the world, despite the fact that I happened upon his gallery near closing time.  After leaving the gallery, I thought that I might catch up on some work, and so I decided to order take-out and return to the cottage.  I asked at three restaurants in Kenmare:  the first two apologized, saying they weren’t set up for take-away.  The third obligingly offered to lend me plates, silverware, glasses, salt-and-pepper shakers, and everything else I needed if I agreed to return it all in the next day or two.  As moved as I was by the gesture, it made me realize that Kenmare was far too charming for me to spend a solitary dinner working in the cottage.  I remembered Eoghan’s relaxed hospitality, and in that spirit went on to enjoy a lovely dinner and to stop by a few more local places before finally heading home for the evening.  I remain grateful to Patricia, Eoghan, and all of the wonderful people I met in Kenmare for welcoming me with such warmth and gracious hospitality.  

When I drove up to the charming gatehouse at Doonbeg, with a fire within, and saw the massive stone walls of the estate, I immediately imagined another painstaking restoration such as the one undergone by Ballyfin a decade ago.  Doonbeg, however, is actually a new construction, overseen by Kiawah Golf Partners, and meticulously designed to blend into the existing landscape and atmosphere.  More often than not, guests assume as I did that a restoration of an old castle has taken place, and they are surprised to learn that an American firm is responsible for the resort.  Whether new or old, Doonbeg is wonderfully hospitable.  Rooms have working fireplaces, umbrellas and boots wait for anyone in need of them, and the bartender at Darby’s Pub is always happy to teach guests how to pour a Guinness.  While there, I was lucky enough to spend some time with Brian, the golf pro, who shared some wonderful stories of life in Ireland, and with Seamus, the property’s Assistant General Manager.  Doonbeg is a favorite with golfers, and pictures of its course designer Greg Norman, are scattered throughout the resort.  Greg Norman is renowned for his challenging courses, and a tour of the 18 holes at Doonbeg will do nothing to undermine that reputation.  The photograph of me as I stand in the sand trap adjacent to the 14th green was taken on a chilly late winter day when few were braving the links, but its sheer size evokes images of frustrated golfers trying to chip their way back into the light.  Doonbeg is a warm, confortable, and luxurious stop for golfers and non-golfers alike, and I look forward to bringing clients there in the near future … and to returning myself.

This year Dromoland Castle celebrates its 50th year in operation as a hotel.  The castle is the most iconic spot for miles around, and locals are justifiably proud of it.  Dromoland is a true castle, and pains were taken to preserve the authenticity of the building while renovating it as a hotel.  For example, there are no elevators in the older part of the house, and dedicated staff members carry armloads of luggage up and down the stairs.  In truth it made me a little nervous at first, but they seem to get on just fine, and in fact the porter who met me when I arrived, later brought me room service and even helped me with checkout when I left.  Every member of Dromoland’s staff knows the hotel intimately and is happy to assist with whatever you like.  Everything at Dromoland reminds you that you are in a castle – the deep-red stained glass windows as you climb the stairs, the massive fireplaces in the public spaces, a horse drawn carriage ready for hire…  and how about the suit of armor that greets you when you enter the main hall?  Another wonderful nod to history is Dromoland’s commitment to genealogy.  If there is some Irish in your family, the hotel’s genealogists can assist you in tracing your roots.  For those who like comfort as well as history, Dromoland does not disappoint.  Rooms boast oversized bathtubs with televisions -- most assuredly a luxury unfamiliar in the original castle – and of course, Dromoland maintains a spa.  Because there is so much to do onsite and nearby, Dromoland is a great stop for families and for couples as well.  Without leaving the estate, you can try falconry, golf, tennis, horseback riding, or simply enjoy the gardens and the beautiful grounds.  Only fifteen minutes from Dromoland, lies Bunratty Castle, which is older than Dromoland and provides a taste of Irelands medieval past.  A little further out, about an hour’s drive, the Cliffs of Moher, Ireland’s most famous landmark are well worth a visit, as are the breathtaking Aran Islands, where Gaelic is still spoken. On a final note, Dromoland is quick fifteen-minute ride to Shannon airport, making it an ideal last stop before heading home.